Aug 01 '06 - 508 W, 4 I - Vote Good + 5 :: Bad - 9 Nuts and Bolts: Tip of the Month
Published August 1st, 2006 by C.I.C.L.E.
Contributed by Harv
There are books, there are websites, there are columns in magazines
about bike repair. They are not always correct, their advice is not
always the most practical, direct, or efficient. Here I attempt to
provide the tips and tricks that I have learned or developed out of
necessity and for expedience.
First,
we have the best and cheapest way to hold those brake arms closed while
you work on adjustments, cabling, levers, saddle wires, anchor bolts,
etc. There are several commercially available "Third Hand" devices at
around 18 to 25 bucks a pop, plus tax and maybe shipping. How about a
two-dollar tool that is just as good?
I have tried using a modified C clamp with some success, but since it is made of steel it is heavy and tends to drop off the brake shoes and into the spokes. Then I saw a 'bar clamp' at Harbor Freight Tools that looked very similar to one of those purpose-made third-hand tools. At $ 1.99 (on sale, regular $3.99 each) it was worth a shot.
The Harbor Freight 4 inch ratchet bar clamp
Works like a charm. Also works like a brake clamp. :) It is constructed of a steel bar and plastic jaws. Light duty but strong enough to hold a brake closed. Don't use this clamp for cracking walnuts. See picture for how to use the clamp to compress the brake arms against the return springs. To release, just press the red button on the clamp. I suggest you hold the brake lever on to relieve stress on the clamp when clamping or releasing.
Two-buck tool holding the rear center-pull brake closed on my PeugeotI discarded the soft pads that came with the clamp and instead, put a single layer of plastic electrical tape on the jaw faces for friction and to protect the brake shoes from being scratched. The pads were too soft and squirmy and kept falling off. Use just enough clamping force to hold the brake pads against the wheel rim.
About the Author: When I was about ten years old and had just received my first full-sized bicycle, my father presented me with an off-set 1/2 - 9/16 box wrench so I could adjust the saddle. It was all uphill from there. Since that single-speed, balloon-tyred Columbia passed from my hands, I have wrenched my way through three-speed hub Schwinns and English Racers, bike-boom tenspeeds, primative mountain bikes, and the modern stuff. I have purchased tools, modified tools, and made them from scratch. My raw materials are sheets of aluminum and wire coat hangers. Workarounds are my specialty.
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In the second paragraph above, “saddle wires” should be “straddle wires”. A straddle wire is what pulls the two brake arms on center-pull and cantilever brakes.
Harv (Email) - August 01 '06 - 16:07
Great tip Harv! I was just resurrecting an old Univega this past weekend, and this make shift ‘third hand’ woulda sure been nice. I can definitely spring for the 1.99 or 3.99 at HF and suffer no more.Shay (Email) - August 02 '06 - 09:58
Collecting tools has been a slow process due to im mostly broke which in turn is the reason i started riding bikes to begin with. At first it was just until i could get enough cash together to get a car, 2 yrs later i could care less about ever owning a car again. i sincerely appreciate any tips you have to offer! THXSerendipity (Email) (URL) - August 05 '06 - 08:33
Serendipity, definitely stay tuned to our site for more tips such as this one. Harv is amazingly resourceful in his approach to mechanics. You’re sure to pick up a few more pointers in this new monthly feature.Shay (Email) - August 08 '06 - 09:48
Yes! I have lots of these around from my carpentry box, and started using them for bicycle fixing some time ago. It can hold a wheel still, it can brace a loose seatpost whilst you tighten the clamp, and service many other hold-still needs.dv (Email) - August 11 '06 - 08:33